The Eternal Echoes of Ephesus. A Travel Photographer's Pilgrimage

The Eternal Echoes of Ephesus: A Travel Photographer's Pilgrimage

Welcome to Ephesus, a place where the whispers of the ancients are as tangible as the relics that pepper its landscape. Through the lens of a traveler with a keen eye for beauty and a knack for storytelling, join me on a pilgrimage to this historic jewel nestled in the heart of Izmir, Turkey. Let's traverse this open-air museum together, capturing not just images, but—where possible—the very soul of Ephesus: a place where every cobblestone has a tale, every ruin has a legacy, and every frame has a soul.
Ephesus: A Crossroads of Ancient Civilization

Nestled in the heart of what is now modern-day Turkey, the ancient city of Ephesus stands as a crossroads where history and legend intertwine. Founded by the Attic-Ionian Greeks in the 10th century BC, Ephesus became a beacon of the classical era, renowned for its grand architecture, strategic port location, and as a center of learning and culture.

Throughout its storied history, Ephesus witnessed the rise and fall of multiple empires. It thrived under the rule of the Lydians and Persians and later flourished as a prominent city of the Roman Empire. It contributed to the Greco-Persian Wars with monetary support and was an ally of first Athens and later Sparta in the Peloponnesian War. Ephesus hosted Alexander the Great after the Battle of Granicus in 334 BC and Mark Antony with Cleopatra before the decisive battle of Actium against Octavian.

When Augustus became emperor in 27 BC, he made Ephesus the capital of proconsular Asia (covering western Asia Minor) instead of Pergamum. Ephesus then entered an era of prosperity, becoming both the seat of the governor and a major center of commerce. According to Strabo, it became a city second in importance and size only to Rome.

Ephesus was famous for the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the site of the first-known advertisement in history (which humorously directed people to a brothel via footprints carved into the Marble Road).

This city also played a significant role in Christianity: the Apostle Paul established one of the early Christian congregations here. The Gospel of John may have been written in Ephesus, and it was the site of several 5th-century Christian Councils. It is believed that the Virgin Mary's resting place is in a house located nearby.

Sadly, over time, the city’s harbor slowly silted up due to the Küçük Menderes River. Ephesus was relocated multiple times throughout history, sometimes even intentionally flooded and destroyed, to preserve access to the Aegean Sea, given the importance of its port for trade. However, the battle against nature was eventually lost, and with its port, the city's decline followed. Today, the sea is about 5km from the former harbor coastline. The once-bustling streets and marketplaces fell silent as the city was gradually abandoned, and its population moved to the hills. The ruins of the temples were used as building blocks for new homes. Marble sculptures were ground to powder to make lime for plaster. By the time the Seljuk Turks conquered Ephesus in 1090, all that was left was a small village.

Ephesus was completely abandoned by the 15th century.

What remains today are the echoes of its ancient grandeur, inviting explorers and history enthusiasts to walk its historic pathways and rediscover its glories.

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Ephesus is not merely an archaeological treasure but a vivid chapter in human history that continues to captivate and inspire all who wander through its majestic ruins.


The State and Commercial Agoras:

Ephesus had two agoras, one for commercial and the other for state business.

These expansive open squares were once the vibrant hubs where merchants hawked their goods, citizens gathered to exchange news, and the great minds of the time engaged in spirited philosophical discourse.

In the State Agora, democracy was exercised, and social bonds were woven into the fabric of daily existence. The remaining columns and arches stand as monoliths to these everyday activities, representing the communal spirit that was integral to ancient urban life.


The Library of Celsus: An Edifice of Knowledge

In the heart of Ephesus lies the Library of Celsus, a monumental tribute to the Roman senator Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, for whom it was built. Erected by Celsus’ son, Gaius Julius Aquila, the library not only served as a mausoleum for its namesake, who is buried in a sarcophagus beneath it, but also as a repository of knowledge that once housed up to 12,000 scrolls, making it one of the largest libraries of ancient times. The library was completed around 135 AD and is a prime example of intricate Roman architectural skill and a testament to the cultural importance placed on learning and knowledge in the ancient world.

On the Library’s façade, statues from left to right represent Sophia (‘Wisdom’), Arete (‘Virtue’), Ennoia (‘Insight’), and Episteme (‘Knowledge’), standing guard over the wisdom once contained within these walls.

This library did not just store texts; it symbolized the wealth and intellectual might of Ephesus. The manuscripts' scrolls were kept in cupboards in niches on the walls, protected by double walls behind the bookcases to prevent damage from temperature extremes and humidity. The library, oriented to the east, is believed to have facilitated reading in the morning light streaming through the façade windows.

The Library of Celsus was the third richest library in ancient times after those of Alexandria and Pergamum.

Its destruction—first by an earthquake in the 3rd century AD, followed by a Goth invasion, and ultimately falling into disuse with the city itself—echoes the fragility of human achievements. However, its façade, reconstructed in the 1970s from the original pieces and replicas, still stands as a portal to the past, captivating visitors with its 16 columns and nine steps leading to its once-great entrance.

I chose to present this photograph in black and white to focus on the textural details—the contrast of light and shadow across the columns, the depth of the carvings, and the formidable presence of the structure. The woman who rests against one of its columns—a modern traveler—represents a living link to the past, embodying the continuity of the human spirit's curiosity and our enduring pursuit of wisdom, usually filled with both determination and fatigue.

This wall art serves as a reminder of where we have come from and the timeless nature of our pursuit of learning and enlightenment. This piece is for sale on this site, as well as in my stores on this site. Owning such a piece is not just an aesthetic choice but an intellectual one, as it brings with it the weight of history and the narrative of a civilization that laid the foundations for the modern world.

As you gaze upon the Library of Celsus in your space, let it be not only an artifact of aesthetic value but also a beacon that compels you to delve deeper into the vast ocean of knowledge, just as the ancient scholars of Ephesus might have done centuries ago.


The Theatre: History Staged

The Great Theatre of Ephesus is not merely an architectural wonder but a crucible of human experience. This Hellenistic amphitheater, one of the largest ever built in the ancient world, could seat more than 24,000 spectators. It stands as a monument to the cultural importance that the Ephesians placed on performance and public discourse.

This theatre was a venue for dramatic performances, political gatherings, and later in Roman times, gladiatorial combat, reflecting the complex social and cultural tapestry of the era. It was in this very place that the conflicts and concords of Ephesian society played out, against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs and the open sky. As the largest theatre in Anatolia, its semi-circular orchestra, the rising tiers of seats, and the grandeur of the stage's backdrop combine to create a venue that is staggering in its scale and impact.

For those who seek to immortalize their visit to Ephesus through photography, this theatre presents an extraordinary subject. Not only does it offer a stunning visual with its imposing structure and striking symmetry, but it also captures the imagination with the stories it holds. To capture an image of the theatre, you’ll need a very wide lens. I didn't have the time to try it, but I believe that the best method would be to create a panorama from the top center, preferably using a tilt-shift lens. For this, you'll need a tripod, which can be challenging to carry for such a long walk.


Journey Tips and Photographic Insights

Navigating the ancient streets of Ephesus is akin to stepping onto the pages of history, and to do so with a photographer's intent is to be in constant dialogue with light, texture, and life. Here are some insights to help you along this photographic odyssey:


Best Times to Visit:

Ephesus's opening hours are 8 am to 6:30 pm. This makes the months of November through October the best time to visit for photography purposes. Sunrise during this period fluctuates from 7:30 to 8:30, giving visitors some time to catch snaps during the golden hours. Late December and early January see sunrise around 8:29 and sunset around 5:30. Unfortunately, during winter, the ancient city opens from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, so catching a sunset, unless you are given special access, is not possible.

Another reason for visiting during these months is the temperature, which oscillates between 9 to 15 degrees Celsius.

Unfortunately for me, I could only visit in the summer. So, catching any golden hour was off the table. Moreover, the day I was scheduled, a heatwave struck the region. We showed up at 9 am. We stayed in Kuşadası, and I could not find any service that would get us there earlier. Unless you are driving your own car, it's challenging to make it there at 8 am. I had to manage to walk around these ruins under 40 degrees Celsius heat. It was brutal. The heat haze did not help either. Everything was hot. I could feel the heat coming from the marbled road.

The ruins, being stone-colored and reflecting light intensely combined with the dust trails and the marbled roads, can reflect harsh light back to your sensor, burning portions of your images if you are not careful. In other words, my timing was horrible, so I couldn’t get the best results. Due to the lack of color and dynamic range, I chose to focus on texture and lines by converting my best images to black and white in post-processing.

Another downside of the excess of light is that it doesn’t allow for long exposures. Ruins are permanent objects. Had I had the opportunity to create long exposures, I feel I would have obtained greater detail while eliminating the crowds of tourists that populate this site at all times. Instead, I had to wait for areas to clear. That means waiting for the endless selfies, group pictures, videos, selfie sticks, and other forms of memory recording that seem to never end in these places. Some people take numerous pictures in equal numbers of postures, look at the results, and even post on social media all from the spot! While others impatiently wait for their turn to do exactly the same. It’s staggering.


Recommended Gear:

The choice of equipment can make or break your photographic journey. A versatile lens is the cornerstone of a travel photographer's kit, providing the flexibility to frame the grand ruins in their entirety or to zoom in on the intimate details. For Ephesus, in daylight, a 24-105mm lens, such as the Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM Lens offers this range, allowing for quick adjustments without the need to switch out gear. (I am a Canon user, but surely you can find similar options for your camera if you use another brand.)

A sturdy tripod is also invaluable, offering stability for those long exposures that smooth out the sky and turn tourists into ghostly figures that hint at the ephemeral nature of time. It also can provide the opportunity to take panoramas of large buildings or landscapes around the city.

Lastly, consider a polarizing filter to enhance the skies and manage reflections, bringing a crisp definition to your images of Ephesus.


Continue the Adventure

In today's world, connection is just a click away. Follow my journey on Instagram @wize_pixels, where the narrative of my life and work continues to unfold. Here, each post is a snapshot of a world that can brighten your day and remind you of the beauty that exists within it.

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